15 Game changing hair care tips from a professional
Simple solutions to everyday hair hang-ups
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I’ve been in the hairdressing industry for 25 years now and while techniques evolve, formulations advance and trends recycle, the general day to day issues that clients commonly experience with their hair have largely remained the same throughout.
A lot of these problems can be resolved with seemingly basic tweaks to routine and care - but over time, these small changes can amount to making a considerable difference.
You might already follow some of this advice (if you are a client then I hope I have already educated you well!)
Cast your eyes over this list of tips and see how many you already follow.
1. Brush your hair to detangle first BEFORE you wash it.
We naturally shed anywhere between 50 -100 hairs every single day.
If it’s been 2-3 days since your last hair wash and especially if your hair has been tied up, there could be up to 300 loose strands tangled up in your tresses, so gently brushing these out before your hair gets wet will give you a head start and help reduce the tangles later on.
2. Brush your hair starting at the ends first then gradually work your way up the hair shaft, roots last.
This will prevent dragging tangles throughout the entire lengths of the hair!
Always use a wide toothed comb or detangling brush such as a Tangle Teezer.
3. Shampoo your scalp, not your hair
Wet the hair and scalp, apply shampoo to your palms, rub together in your hands and spread evenly over the head to distribute by smoothing shampoo around the hairline perimeter first, don’t forget the lower back of the head, this area often gets missed.
Split the hair into two (like pigtails) and smooth shampoo down the mid parting across the top and back of the head, then section across from ear to ear (think of a hot cross bun and apply shampoo along the cross)
Massage the scalp in gentle, circular motions, add a little water if you need some help in creating foam. As the lather drifts downwards and the hair is rinsed, the lengths of the hair will be cleansed automatically as a result.
Generally most heads of hair that are longer than 5 inches can benefit from 2 shampoos - the first to help loosen up any hair product build up and the second to get a good lather going and deeply cleanse.
4. A volume shampoo works best for most hair types
It may be controversial, but I generally use volume shampoo on almost every client at the salon but not because we want volume (shampoo alone can’t create volume anyway)
The reason I do this is because volume shampoos are light weight and don’t contain too many moisturising ingredients.
Shampoo is being applied to the scalp remember, so the main task for shampoo is to clean.
Then, to treat dry ends, your conditioner is going to do all the work, so go as rich and as moisturising as you desire on this.
A common mistake is reaching for a moisturising shampoo for dry hair. Moisturising shampoo on most hair types will likely add too much nourishment to the scalp which can result in quicker oil production, flat hair and a need to shampoo again more frequently. Chances are the dryness is at the ends. So treat this with conditioner.
My golden rule of thumb is volume/clarifying shampoo at the scalp and then richer more nourishing conditioner on the mid-lengths and ends. It’s the perfect combo.
(Of course there are exceptions. For example if you have coloured hair with vibrant shades/ a toner/ a global gloss that is prone to fading, you will want to check that any shampoo you use is also sulphate free or at least colour-safe. Or if you have a dry scalp or curly, coarse hair, you might actually like the added hydration that a richer, moisturising shampoo gives)
5. Towel dry your hair before applying conditioner
When the hair isn’t soaking wet, you’ll find that a little product goes a long way, it won’t get diluted by excess water and you’ll get better results.
6. Apply conditioner to mid lengths and ends only
Hair at the root is new so generally healthy already. We want to keep this area light and free from moisturising product to encourage lift and body.
By keeping conditioner away from the roots, it prevents this area from becoming weighed down, lank and greasy. This in turn should also mean you can go a little longer between shampoos.
7. Pat or squeeze hair dry with a towel - never rub!
If you’re not already doing this, it could be the single most important change you make! Rubbing hair, especially when wet, is so damaging!
When I used to do home visits and see people in their natural environments I would see this happening a LOT and to me it was like nails down a black board to me - eeeeeeek!
Think about velvet. When you rub it one way it feels nice and smooth and soft. When you rub against the grain you create friction and it feels rough.
It’s the same with your hair. The outer layer is lined with cuticles. When the cuticles are smooth the hair remains sleek and can reflect light more efficiently resulting in a healthy shine. If you rough it up the wrong way the hair will feel coarse and appear dull and lacklustre. (Not to mention causing damage)
8. Always use heat protection!
Using a hairdryer, diffuser, straightening irons, tongs? Make sure you use a heat protector first. Especially if your hair is coloured or chemically treated.
This is especially important if you are trying to grow your hair. Put the work in and take care of your locks. Less damage means less to cut off on your next salon visit.
9. Limit your use of dry shampoo
A little blast of dry shampoo on non hair wash days can help absorb any excess oil and revive your blow dry. I even like a tiny spritz on freshly washed and blow dried hair to give body and volume. However, if you’re at the point where you need half a can to make a difference, just quit and actually wash your hair! Otherwise you risk blocking the follicles with too much product and that’s not great for scalp health.
10. Try and make time for a weekly deep conditioning mask
Think of it like a face mask for your hair. An intensive boost of nutrients and nourishment. If you’re a bath person, apply during a soak in the tub to maximise the use of time.
11. Try and use cooler water for your final rinse
Not only will this help to remove residual conditioner from the hair more efficiently, cold water helps to close the cuticle layer and promote shine.
12. Try a leave in scalp treatment
Healthy hair begins with a healthy scalp. Thinning around the hairline, especially around the recession area is a common issue with women often linked to hormones, so contraception, pregnancy and menopause can all contribute as well as exposure to stress, poor diet and lifestyle.
Scalp treatments and massage can help to stimulate circulation, boosting a nutrient dense blood supply to the scalp which in turn supports healthy hair growth.
Consistency is key so fully commit to regular application for the best outcomes.
13. Don’t even bother trying to blow dry your hair until it’s already at least 80% dry
Otherwise you’re just going to get hot and bothered and end up with major arm ache! If the hair is still soaking wet, it’s going to be impossible for it to hold any kind of shape so blast dry or allow it to air dry 80% first and then begin blow drying in sections.
14. Use a nozzle if blow drying
This is an essential piece of kit in the quest for sleek hair as it will concentrate and direct air flow down the hair shaft, keeping cuticles silky smooth.
15. If tying hair up, wait until hair is dry, try not to pull it too tightly and use a soft hair tie or scrunchie to help reduce breakage.
Wet hair is more fragile and elastic so should not be tied up due to risk of stretching and snapping. Hair that is pulled too tightly can cause damage to the scalp and follicles, while hair ties made of elastic can snag and cause breakage.
I hope you found this useful and learnt something new! A follow up post is in the pipeline with specific product and tool recommendations.
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This is really helpful information. Thank you so much! I was wondering if you might have recommendations for scalp treatments? I have never tried one.
Thank you for all these tips! What is your favorite leave in scalp treatment?